Saturday, December 6, 2008

Back again on Saturday Dec 6, 2008

Hello again,
They have decided to keep the internet cafe open for us, so here I go again.
Our house is on the Deaf School campus, it sits on the side of a hill and we have a decent view of the coutry side and of Good Shepherd Hospital. The children at the school are incredibly sweet but want to come by and talk/sign and write with us. Their summer break starts next week so it will be much calmer where we are living. Food wise, we are surviving. Lots of pasta, eggs and grilled cheese. Fortunately there are a couple liquor stores in town so we are able to make a cocktail in the evening. And yes, they have Coca-Cola here made with realy sugar so it is most delicious and I do appreciate it.
It is considered very unsafe to be out after dark. So once the sun sets at around 6:15pm we are in for the night. There is no walking outside anywhere in town because it would not be safe so that has been a drag not being able to be out in the evening breeze. We have a fan that helps with the heat and mosquito netting to keep the bugs at bay. David's bedtime routine is quite complicated, imagine adding netting, the proper fan positioning, bug spray, security concerns to name a few to the already neurotic night time routine, most of you will understand. We have spent a fair amount of time reading and just rehashing the days events and falling deep asleep by 10ish. We have two bedrooms but only one bed so the locals are very concerned that David and I have to share a bed, (for some reason it has not been so concerning to David and I, we adapt rather quickly at times) the administrator at the hospital has promised another bed but who knows when it will arrive. The administrator at the Deaf School, Rose (who is very sweet and helpful) feels quite bad for us the we have to share a bed but not at all concerned with the lack of water. Yesterday she said the water may come back on tomorrow or the next day, in Siteki you never know. Thank God for Old Spice Deodorant, although the locals do not use any deodorant at all and boy can it be quite overwhelming on a hot day, which is most days.
Queen, thank you for organizing my going away book at work, it has been so wonderful to read and savor. Thank you all for your kind thoughts and wishes and prayers. Mary M., I have been using the rosary and I very much appreciate your parting with such an important object in your life, I do cherish it. The church we are going to is just incredible. What gorgeous voices the choir has. The mass lasts a good hour and a half, the church is nearly full, very hot with an occassional breeze blowing by and the service is completely in Siswati. Obviously we do not understand a word yet but it was very fulfilling spiritually to be present and sit quietly and peacefully at the mass. We are able to follow along after forty years of Catholic masses so we are not missing out. We are looking forward to tomorrows service.
Jim P. there are many here that would believe as Shirley's caregiver did about rocks. Girl, there are rocks in abundance here! Seriously, the soil is very rocky so growing crops is quite a challenge especially in the drought conditions here of the past several years. Most homesteads have a very small plot of land, say 10 x 20 feet or less, to grow some crops in although the soil of late is very dry and does not produce much.
The hospital looks as one would expect from movies that you have seen about Africa or other poor countries. The hospital has about 24o beds although they do not all seem to be full. Some wards are full while others have a few empty beds. On the weekends there are very few staff around and on my first visit the wards I was shocked and horrified at the preceived lack of patient care. Nothing happens quickly here, learning to be patient is going to be one of my big lessons here. The hospital has 9 doctors now, the most ever at the hospital to date. The only eye doctor in all of Swaziland is here at GSH and has given sight to many of the old men and women of Swaziland and is very well respected as are all of the doctors and nurses here. Most people think that David and I are doctors, there are several male nurse here and they are called Sisters, isn't that appropriate and a bit campy. The busiest part of the hospital is the Out Patient Department, by 7:30am there is a long line of over two hundred people to be seen, many more on Mondays and Fridays. They must pay 15 Emalengeni each to be seen which is equal to about 3 days wages, if admitted the costs just escalate and is very prohibitive to most of the population. Although in the midst of it all there are some private rooms at the hospital for those who are well off financially. The patients arrive by bus/coombie or in the back of a pickup truck. It is not unusual to see a mother bringing her cachetic child in their twenties or early thirties for their first visit to the hospital to find that they have acitve TB and AIDS with very few T-cells remaining. If the patient is well enough to go on ARV's then they must make the journey to the hospital at least two more times before they can get their meds (which are provided free of charge) to show that there is a chance that they may be compliant. Unfortunately, many cannot afford the bust fare to come back so basically go home to die. There has not been an outbreak of Malaria in this region in many years, I am still taking my doxycycline since I am making home visits in the Lowveld area where there is a higher risk and more ticks and chiggers looking for a place to lay their eggs or bite you.
I know that it sounds so dismal here but there is also alot of joy here. The people are incredibly friendly and they just open their hearts to you immediately. We have learned a few greeting in SiSwati and the locals really appreciate the effort. I, of course do not understand more than a word or two of their response but give a big smile and a hand shake. Amy, thanks for the information on how to shake hands and to show respect to the elders, it has been most helpful and very well received.
Please tell the others about my blog because internet access is so limited and I am unable to respond individually to emails at this time. Also, please do not email any attachments because it usually makes the computer 'freeze-up' and I loose what little time I have on the computer. It is best to respond to this blog, it is most accessible for me. All of the internet access we have is dialup and is very slow.
Last weekend we went on a drive around Swaziland and ended up in Ezeilwini Valley (not spelled correctly) where the royal family lives. We went to the Incwala celebration which gives thanks for the new crops and the King appears, eats a pumpkins and tells his people that they can eat the new crops to come. I have very mixed feelings about seeing the king but really enjoyed the ceremony. David and I both danced, barefooted and with sticks, it was something that you would see on the Discovery Channel where you would say 'look at the silly white boys trying to dance' with all of the warriors. They were all dressed in tradition garb, animal skins, feathers, shirtless etc, Daniel B. you would have been in heaven. The Incwala was really great to participate in and kind of spiritual I must say.
I am out of time. Sending lots of love to you all.
Peace,
Scott

9 comments:

Paul Metzler said...

Scott --

I tried to leave a commment a few minutes ago, but don't know if it was sent properly.

I was trying to tell you two things:
1) Better for you, as a white boy, to dance in Swaziland than me.
2) Its 19 degrees in NYC, so enjoy your sweating.

Also, I hope you get bathing water soon. That would be hard to adjust to day after day.

Today was the first day I signed on and read the 3 blogs you posted.
Amazing stuff. Blessings to you both.

Paul

Amy said...

Anne and Amy are checking in again...hope you have gotten some water by now. OH MY!!! You are giving such good descriptions on your blog and we have the feeling of being there with you. Do you need anything we can send yet? More Obama stuff for barter purposes...Dr. Hartmann told us about your adventure. Sure do miss you, friend. No one here is saying "For God's sake." Queen is off in the woods for a few days and it is freeeezing here. Alice and Amy have been holding down the fort. Your blog is a hit in the office...we all enjoy reading your updates. Take care...Love, Amy and Anne

Stephen B. said...

Dear S & D
WOW I am full of visions of the two of you "going Swazi" What a vivid full and interesting description. How we animals can endure so much suffering and still dance and create... NY as you can imagine is more hustle and between heat and water it is an oasis. I wonder what it will all look like when they shut off the heat and water. Spooky. WHat is hopeful is life goes on in the face of great despair. We are sending our love and great admiration to you both.
Gina and Stephen

BrianJohn said...

Gosh, from your descriptions I can almost see the place, and worse--smell it! I never thought I'd be thankful that you use Old Spice. Careful, the sweetness is sure to attract black flies.
So glad your adventure has gotten under way. The place sounds truly soul wrenching, and I expect, that's where the fulfillment of your spirit will begin. God bless. Brian

Stuart Anthony said...

ok, now the Second try on this:
the first seems to not have posted
Scott - my dear!! my first visit to your blog
I saw DC yesterday who told me of David's email and that you had the blog up and going. I had thought you would be so busy getting settled that you would not have had any time for post. So here I am at work getting caught up on your life.
We miss you. You seem well, though your depiction of life there is awfully grim. I am glad you have pointed out what joys there are.
You are living in the faculty quarters of a deaf school....an un-expected twist. I see this as a setting for a movie....
Of course I am concerned for you. Where/how do you get your drinking water? I don't think we can send any of that over, but we will put together a package of Purell, DVDs (preferences?), and protein bars. What kind of protein bars do you like (or perhaps easier, are there any you just HATE?) It would totally suck to be stuck in the middle of Africa, waiting for that care-package from home, and all it has was banana-flavored Power Bars. uggh.
Why is it not safe to be outside after dark? Animals, angry villagers? Please explain!!
Got to go.
Are you going to get a Skype account? My Skype account is: StuartAnthony1
Will called while I was writing this and he sends his love. and mine. hugs to you and David.
xo
Stuart

Patti said...

Dear Scott & David!
Wow. Scott your writing is so vivid I am breaking into a sweat just reading it! Truly you are a gifted communicator---but then anyone who knows you knows that. I do hope that writing about your experiences is a comfort to you. These entries describe a place that is both heartbreaking and inspiring---the power and meaning of life itself shines through all the rest, no? Granted, "all the rest" is pretty bleak. Your smile and handshake and the power of your bearing witness to the sickness and poverty there are immeasurably meaningful. What shall we put in your Care Package?! Please give some suggestions of things we can send that will help and/or comfort you and David. Miss and love you.
-Patti & Emma.

Stuart Anthony said...

Hi Scott & David -
All of us in the office just looked at Siteki on googlemaps!!

So you are at a very high elevation it looks like. There are several big buildings: one U-shaped in the middle of town and a big rectangular building with the big parking lot on the south side of town? Is that the hospital? Give us some orientation to the large buildings and we will be able to figure out where you live and work!! Best wishes
Stuart

Jim said...

scott, i left you a "carnegie hall" message under your original blog entry...i hope you find it. i continue to be in awe of what you & david are doing for you are truly putting actions to words. love to you, jim :)

debbie said...

Scottina
WOW i just read your posts and after talking to you on the phone last night and reading what i just read I am truly in awww of you. I am so proud of what your doing. I know there are some tough time and things that go along with this venture of yours, but I also know that the fulfillment your getting is greater than any hardship. I love you and am thinking of you often. Tonight when you two are having your cocktails may i suggest that you raise your glasses and toast yourselves. What you are both doing is truly amazing and im so proud of you both.
`debbie